Is Teotihuacan Aztec or Mayan? Neither, and that is the interesting part

Teotihuacan was already ruins for centuries before the Aztecs found it, and it sits far from Maya territory. Who built it, what they called themselves, and why nobody knows.

Checked against the operators' live listings, INAH and Mexico's civil aviation authority. How we verify this.

The Temple of the Feathered Serpent at Teotihuacan with rows of carved stone serpent heads on its facade

This is the most-asked question about Teotihuacan by a distance, and the answer is a flat neither. The city was not built by the Aztecs and it was not built by the Maya. It predates the Aztecs by roughly a thousand years, and it sits several hundred kilometres from Maya territory.

What makes the question interesting is that nobody can tell you who did build it, or what they called themselves.

The timeline that settles it

Roughly when What was happening
100 BCE onward Teotihuacan is founded and begins to grow in the valley north-east of modern Mexico City
100 to 550 CE Its peak. One of the largest cities in the world at the time, controlling the Mesoamerican obsidian trade
c. 550 to 750 CE Decline and collapse. Major structures along the Avenue of the Dead are burned
c. 750 to 1300 CE The city stands abandoned, a ruin in an occupied landscape
1325 CE The Aztecs found Tenochtitlan, roughly where Mexico City is now
1400s CE Aztec rulers visit the ruins, treat them as sacred, and give them the name we still use

Read the gap. By the time the Aztecs arrived in the valley of Mexico, Teotihuacan had been abandoned for something like six hundred years. That is a longer gap than the one between us and Chaucer.

The Aztecs named it, which is why people get confused

"Teotihuacan" is a Nahuatl word, the Aztec language. It is usually translated as something like "the place where the gods were created" or "the place where men become gods".

That is not the name of the city. It is what a much later civilisation called a set of enormous ruins they found and could not explain. The Aztecs assumed something divine had happened there, because what else do you conclude about a two-kilometre avenue lined with pyramids that nobody remembers building. They made pilgrimages to it and buried offerings in it.

So every name on the site is Aztec: the Avenue of the Dead, the Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon. None of them is what the builders used. We do not know what the builders used, because their writing system has not been deciphered in a way that gives us their own name for themselves.

Why not the Maya

Geography, mostly. Maya civilisation occupied the Yucatán peninsula, Guatemala, Belize and neighbouring areas, hundreds of kilometres to the south-east. Teotihuacan is in the central Mexican highlands.

The two were contemporaries and they knew each other. There is strong evidence of Teotihuacan influence at Maya sites, including a documented moment in the fourth century when Teotihuacan appears to have installed a ruler at Tikal. Trade ran both ways. Teotihuacan had a Maya-associated neighbourhood.

But influence is not identity. Confusing the two is a bit like calling a Roman city Greek because there was a Greek quarter in it.

So who were they?

Low stone walls of an excavated residential compound at Teotihuacan, laid out on a strict grid

Unknown, and honestly stated as unknown by the archaeologists working on it. Teotihuacan was multi-ethnic: excavated neighbourhoods show distinct Zapotec and Maya-linked populations living in the city alongside the majority. That cosmopolitanism is one of the more remarkable things about it, and it is also part of why a single ethnic label does not fit.

The city also lacks the thing that usually answers this question, which is a monumental record of named rulers. Maya sites are covered in dynastic inscriptions. Teotihuacan is not. There are no royal portraits along the Avenue of the Dead, no king lists, no obvious ruler's tomb. Some researchers read that as evidence of a collective or corporate form of government rather than a personality cult.

A civilisation that built one of the largest cities on earth and left no ruler's name is a genuinely strange thing, and it is the reason Teotihuacan is worth the trip beyond its size.

What this changes about visiting

Two things.

You are not looking at Aztec architecture. If you have read about Tenochtitlan or seen the Templo Mayor in Mexico City, that is a different civilisation, a thousand years later, that regarded these ruins the way we regard Stonehenge.

The layout is the document. With no inscriptions to read, the city's plan is the main thing its builders left behind: a two-kilometre axis, the Pyramid of the Moon closing the north end against Cerro Gordo, the Pyramid of the Sun set deliberately off-centre, the Ciudadela anchoring the south. That plan is what a sunrise balloon flight puts in front of you in one frame, and it is not legible from the ground.

On the ground, the thing to seek out is the Temple of the Feathered Serpent in the Ciudadela, whose carved facade survives precisely because a later structure was built over it and buried it. That is as close as the site gets to speaking in its own voice. The guided add-on is worth the money here for exactly this reason: without a guide, almost none of it is signposted.

The short version, for the person who asked

Not Aztec. Not Maya. An earlier and separate civilisation whose own name for itself is lost, whose city was the largest in the Americas at its height, and whose ruins impressed the Aztecs so much six centuries later that they assumed gods had made them.

← All posts

★ 4.9 · 7,085 reviews See the Flight →